A steep trek up a winding path leads towards the monastery on the summit. Some ninety metres (300 feet) above the lake's surface are low, round, thatched-roof buildings that house the monks, and nearby an arch set into a high stone wall leads to a grassy clearing, at the centre of which stands the church of St Stephanos, a relatively new building erected about a century ago after the original structure had burned down in a grass fire.
The real historic interest in Dega Estefanos, however, lies in its treasury. Here, together with numerous piles of brightly coloured ceremonial robes, are coffins containing the mummified remains of several former emperors: Yekuno Amlak, who restored the Solomonic dynasty in 1270; Dawit, late fourteenth century; Zara Yaqob, fifteenth century; Za Dengel, early seventeenth century; and Fasilidas, also seventeenth century. The modern, glass-sided coffins allow visitors to view the mummified bodies.
Dega Estefanos is also said to have served as a temporary hiding place for Ethiopia's most jealously guarded religious relic - the Ark of the Covenant. Tradition has it that the Ark was brought to the island for safekeeping in the sixteenth century, when the Muslim forces of warlord Ahmed Gragn attacked and occupied Axum, where the Ark normally rested.
History aside, bird lovers should make a point to visit Fasilidas Island, near the eastern side of the lake. And, of course, when moving around on the lake, be sure to notice the interesting tankwa boats, which may be seen making their way between the islands and the mainland. These little papyrus boats, open at the back end, appear dangerously unwaterworthy as they slide over the surface, but they continue to carry passengers and goods to and from the islands as they have done for centuries.
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